Blyxa Aubertii (Bamboo Plant)

Blyxa aubertii is an expressedly decorative aquatic plant which is rarely commercially avaible because of its fragile leaves. Leaves are linear, 20-40 cm long, 0,5-1,5 cm wide, often reddish or olive-green. Under moderate lighting Blyxa aubertii will produce dark-green leaves, especially if nitrate is abundant. Light that is too dim or excessive shading will result in the detachment of individual leaves as they melt away from the central stem. Under bright lighting the plant will produce deep-red leaves. The red hue can be further enhanced with increase iron supplementation. The lower third of the leaf has three distinct edges, becoming more slender towards the top and finishing in a hair-thin tip. Although it develops best in soft, acid water, a satisfactory cultivation can also succeed in medium-hard, subalkaline water. Nutrient-rich substrate, strong lighting and CO2 addition is recommended to assist the plant’s growth, as strong specimens can be quite eye-catching with their 50-100 leaves. Plant-consuming fish should not be incorporated with Blyxa aubertii because they damage the sensitive leaves. The inconspicuous flowers can also be found regularly in the aquarium. They develop either above the surface or, in case of a too high water level, submersed.

Propagation of Blyxa aubertii is easily possible with rhizome division: separate side-shoot at the rhizome with about 6 leaves. Seeding cultivation is also possible, but lengthy and not easy. The white flowers on the tips of modified leaves can be pollinated manually, but that is not necessary, as the flowers are capable of pollinating themselves. With time the seeds can be seen through the walls of their encasement. When they have changed from a light green to a brownish color, it is time for sowing them in the tank. Plantlets can be moved when they have reached about 5-6 cm in height.

Quick Blyxa Aubertii Facts

Scientific name: Blyxa aubertii;

Common Name: Bamboo plant;

Family: Hydrocharitaceae;

Origin: Asia and Australia;

Water pH: 6.0–7.0;

Water temperature: 23–28 °C (73.4–82.4°F);

Water hardness: 5–6 ° dGH;

Propagation: By Cuttings;

Lighting need: Bright (0.3–0.4 W / l);

Recommended substrate: Fine gravel;

Ideal placement in a fish tank: Middle;

Leaves structure: Up to 45 cm in length with a width of 1.8 cm;

Maximum size: 40–50 cm;

Growth rate: Normal;

Housing and Care

For optimum growth, the plant needs a tropical aquarium with a water temperature of at least 24 °C. The total hardness of the water should not exceed 5–6 ° dGH. The plant degrades very quickly and dies in more severe water. The pH of the water should be close to neutral or slightly acidic (6.0–7.0). The water should be clean and 20 -25% water should be changed regularly to keep the aquarium environment healthy.

For the proper maintenance of the plant, a relatively large volume aquarium is required and planting is necessary for the middle or background position of the aquarium. If the plant is planted in the central part of the aquarium, it looks like as an ornament.

Natural Habitat for Discus

Discus are found in floodplain lakes and flooded forests of the lowland Amazon River basin and some of its tributaries, including the Rio Negro.  These areas experience extreme changes in water level due to seasonal flooding.  Discus tend to congregate near fallen trees, known as “galhadas”, along the shore.  They prefer quiet water, and are rarely found in areas where there is strong current or wave action.

Discus Water Requirements

Discus prefer warm, soft, acidic water.  pH should be between 6.0 and 7.0, with hardness between 1° and 4° dKH (18 to 70 ppm).  Temperature should be kept between 82° and 89° F. Water conditions for both wild and hybrid discus are the same. While captive bred discus can be kept in dechlorinated tap water  reverse osmosis or deionized water supplemented will ensure the the best conditions. Discus require pristine water quality, and depending on the filtration system being used, a weekly or bi-weekly water change of 10% to 25% is highly recommended. Don’t forget to treat tap water with conditioner before refilling your aquarium!  

Housing Requirements for Discus

Discus grow to be quite large, and full sized discus will require an aquarium of 50 gallons or larger when they reach adult size.  Tall aquariums are best, to accommodate their body shape.  Current should be gentle, and décor if used at all should include large broadleaf plants and driftwood that is arranged vertically to simulate downed branches and trees.  A few floating plants can also be added to provide shaded areas and cover. Substrate should be fine to medium grade and smooth surfaced, as discus like to forage along the bottom for food.

Discus Behavior/Compatibility

Discus are generally calm, peaceful fish, but as cichlids they can be aggressive toward one another, especially when attempting to pair off and spawn.  Shy or submissive fish should be removed if they are unable to compete. Most serious hobbyists do not mix their discus with too many other species. However, suitable aquarium mates include cardinal tetras, neons, emperor and rummy nose tetras, as well as clown loaches and dwarf cichlids such as rams and Apistogramma species. All of these fish tolerate the high temperatures and low pH/hardness required by discus.  

What do Discus Eat?

In nature discus eat a considerable amount of plant material and detritus, but also forage along the bottom looking for worms and small crustaceans.  They are omnivores and will thrive on freeze dried black worms, beefheart, frozen blood worms, and a variety of pellet and flake food. Frozen and live foods may be fed as treats or to help induce spawning.  For best results, rotate their diet daily and feed only what they can consume in 2 to 3 minutes, once or twice a day.

Discus Breeding Level – Difficult

Captive bred discus will pair up and spawn relatively easily, but young, inexperienced parents may eat their eggs the first few times, particularly if other fish are present.  After hatching the young feed on heavy body mucus secreted by the parents for a few days until they begin to free-swim.  Parents will transfer the young back and forth several times a day.